Choosing a regulator can seem a daunting task. First comes the
shock that the cost of the regulator does not include the octopus,
gauges and BCD inflator hose that was always included in the rented
and school equipment. However, modern regulators all come up to a
very high minimum standard so whichever you decide to purchase, you
are unlikely to be disappointed. But, as with most purchases, going
for major brand names assures a certain level of quality and even
though many of us like a bargain, with Scuba equipment, the more you
spend the better the equipment you get. So, if you thought your
regulator would include an octopus and gauges, take your regulator
budget and deduct between GBP150 and GBP200 to allow for them .
Whatever is left is what you can afford for your regulator. Remember
to look for our recommended and favourite symbols to help in
selecting the best regulators. You should always use the same brand
of 1st and 2nd stages, so the octopus you choose should be from the
same manufacturer as your regulator to ensure the intermediate
pressures are compatible. Gauges need not be made by the same
manufacturer but you should always go for major brands such as
Uwatec and Suunto because their accuracy and reliability are much
higher than imitations. When you have made your choice and Ordered
your equipment from us, we will assemble and test the regulator,
octopus, gauges and any hoses, prior to despatch or collection to
ensure they are functioning correctly (unless you request us
otherwise).
The most common coupling is the International A-Clamp or Yoke fitting (same thing, different names!). Wherever you go in the world, the dive operation will certainly have A-Clamp fitting but not necessarily DIN although DIN is becoming more common. Even if you buy an A-Clamp regulator most manufacturers offer a DIN kit with which a technician can replace the original A-Clamp fitting at a later stage if needed.
DIN fitting regulators are by far a safer coupling with the regulator actually screwing into the tank valv, trapping the high pressure o-ring so it cannot extrude like it occasionally (and spectacularly) does with an A-Clamp fitting. There are two types of DIN fitting - DIN200 and DIN300 with DIN200 having 7 threads suitable for use with 232bar/3000psi cylinders and DIN300 with 9 threads suitable for 300bar/4500psi cylinders. Although a DIN300 fitting will attach to DIN200 valve this is not recommended.
Simply put, a balanced regulator is always a preferable option. Most entry level regulators are unbalanced whereas the next model up is generally balanced. A balanced first stage regulator offers consistent air flow regardless of depth and tank pressure. An unbalanced regulator will become harder to breathe from as depth increases and or tank pressure decreases. That said, modern unbalanced regulators perform very well and the advantage of an unbalanced regulator is that annual service costs are lower as they tend have few moving parts. This does in turn make them exceptionally reliable as are all modern regulators, regardless of type. However, balanced regulators offer consistent high air flow to the second stages making breathing resistance less and therefore breathing easier.
The definition of cold water diving is in water less than 10 degrees centigrade. There are markings to help you identify regulators suitable for cold water diving such as EN250 but most will say whether they are cold water compatible or environmental sealed in the descriptions. Do not assume that a regulator is cold water suitable. If you have any doubt please contact us. Having a cold water regulator does not mean that you will not have a free flow in colder conditions however. High pressure air and water form ice, which in turn can cause a free flow. You should follow the manufacturers recommendations set down in the manual that will accompany your regulator to avoid freeflow and ask your dive instructor or read one of the many books on the subject.
Piston vs Diaphragm
These terms refer to the way the first stage of your regulator reduces tank pressure to an intermediate pressure. Piston regulators have a very good flow rate. They generally have only one moving part (the piston) which can make them quite expensive since the machining to make the body must be exact. Piston first stages tend to be more expensive to buy as they have to be manufactured more precisely, but having fewer moving parts makes them even more reliable and less expensive to service. Most deep divers will insist on a piston first stage. A diaphragm first stage has many moving parts but is much simpler to manufacturer, offering a lower initial purchase cost but lower performance (not generally noticeable within recreational sports diving limits). However, diaphragm regulators tend to offer more protection in colder water against free flow.
Most regulators first stage will have 1 high pressure port (7/16" thread) and 4 low pressure ports (3/8" thread). Having differing port sizes avoids any error in fitting as a high pressure hose is too big to fit in a low pressure port and vice versa. Higher specification first stages may have an additional high pressure port which is ideal when you have computerised gauges and require an analogue back up gauge in case of battery failure. Some first stages feature a special low pressure port that is designed for use with the primary second stage as the air flow to that port is higher than the others.
Overbalanced
An over-balanced first stage achieves unprecedented performance by increasing your air supply the deeper you go.
Nitrox
Unless stated by the manufacturer, regulators are not suitable for use with elevated oxygen content mixes. Most leading manufacturers now make their entire range suitable for use with nitrox (EANx) up to 40%. Above this level you need to opt for specially cleaned regulators such as the Apeks Nitrox range of regulators. Titanium regulators are not suitable for use with nitrox. Nitrox regulators need to be oxygen cleaned each year with the annual service or if ever contaminated with unclean air which can increase the on going maintenance costs. You should consult the owners manual of your regulator and speak with your dive instructor for further advice.
Compact second Stages
A compact second stage is around 75% of the size of a normal second stage but in some cases can be less than half normal size. This design offers a lighter physical weight which in turn reduces jaw fatigue. Some are even smaller offering even more comfort during longer dives. Smaller second stages also have the advantage of less dead air space which in turns help reduce any potential carbon dioxide build up.
Side Vented Second Stages
The exhausted air from a normal second stage exits the second stage under the mouthpiece. This means that bubbles often come across the face of the divers mask, disturbing the view, especially whilst ascending and descending. A side vented regulator exhausts the exhaled air to one side offering a clearer view. Some side vented second stages also have the advantage that they may be used either way up making them ideal for use as an alternate air source (octopus).
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